On November 15 2024, YEN Studios brought the spirit of the Sobremesa Magazine to life with a pop-up event at BLK IVY Thrift in Philadelphia. Inspired by the mission of the store and the history of Black Ivy, we commemorated the collaboration with this short article.
Fashion has always been more than a matter of aesthetics; it is a reflection of culture, history, and the aspirations of its time. From the bold statements, to the sustainability trends shaping modern wardrobes, garments tell stories of identity, resistance, and a commitment to future generations. By designing for life, honoring the past, and building for tomorrow, we make sure that fashion remains a meaningful tool for change.
Black Fashion and the Stories We Wear
Black fashion, especially from the 1960s to the 1980s, has long been a canvas for resistance and pride. Movements like Black Ivy transformed Ivy League fashion into a bold statement of Black excellence and intellect. Figures like Miles Davis, Malcolm X, Amiri Baraka and Sidney Poitier reinterpreted preppy aesthetics—tweed blazers, slim trousers, and oxford shirts—imbuing them with cultural significance and a sense of defiance against racial exclusion. Black Ivy wasn’t just about style; it was a proclamation of dignity, ambition, and the right to exist in spaces that sought to exclude us.
Simultaneously, other iconic styles emerged. The flamboyant zoot suit, with its exaggerated proportions—wide-legged pants, long jackets, and bold accessories—was revived in certain Black communities during the 60s and 70s as a symbol of rebellion, cultural flair, and resistance against societal norms and racial oppression. The Afro rejected Eurocentric beauty standards, celebrating natural Black hair as a crown of pride. The militant uniforms of the Black Panther Party—black leather jackets, berets, and combat boots—blended practicality with symbolism, projecting strength and solidarity.
Each garment was more than a piece of fabric; it was a declaration of identity and intent. These styles spoke volumes about the struggles and triumphs of their wearers, turning fashion into a visual language of resistance and resilience that is till this day, still understood.
Black Ivy’s Lasting Legacy in Modern Design
The influence of Black Ivy continues to shape contemporary fashion in the resurgence of “preppy” looks and other styles. Brands like Fear of God and Bianca Saunders reinterpret the elegance of tailoring through a modern, Afrocentric lens, while cultural movements celebrating Black excellence channel the ethos of Black Ivy’s intellectual refinement and sartorial pride. The blending of sharp tailoring with streetwear sensibilities in today’s menswear owes much to Black Ivy’s ability to balance tradition with rebellion.
Black Ivy’s significance extends beyond fashion—it symbolizes the reclamation of space, narratives, and visibility. It teaches us that style is not static; it evolves with the culture, embracing complexity and identity.
Thrifting and Sustainability: A Future Rooted in the Past
Today, fashion’s commitment to sustainability echoes this legacy of intention. Thrifting has become a cultural movement, blending affordability, creativity, and environmental consciousness. Thrifting challenges the wastefulness of fast fashion by extending the life of garments, preserving the stories woven into each piece.
Pre-loved items—whether a 70s bell-bottom, a 90s leather jacket—carry their histories, reminding us of the interconnectedness of fashion and culture. This trend aligns with a growing awareness that sustainability isn’t just about saving resources but about preserving heritage and crafting a future rooted in respect for the past.
With thrifting gaining renewed traction, it opens a gateway for younger generations to embrace sustainable practices. It fosters a shared space where values like environmental stewardship and creativity intersect, encouraging exploration of interconnected ideals such as biophilic design. Through these practices, thrifting not only addresses overconsumption but also nurtures a deeper connection to nature, heritage, and community.
Designing for Future Generations
As we move forward, the philosophy of designing for life demands that fashion honor its multifaceted heritage while prioritizing sustainability. Creating garments that are not only functional but also timeless ensures that future generations inherit a wardrobe of stories, pride, and possibilities.
From the trailblazing influence of Black Ivy to the rising impact of thrifting, fashion has always been a testament to the interconnectedness of the past, present, and future. By designing intentionally, we leave more than clothes behind—we leave legacies of identity, creativity, and care for the planet and its people.